Inside the Making of a Hand-Embroidered Phiran

 

The Kashmiri Phiran is a beautiful garment that carries generations of artistry, heritage, and soul. A legacy in itself, the hand-embroidered Phiran from Luxuries of Kashmir is more than just a piece of clothing; it is a statement of culture, identity, and slow, sustainable luxury. At Luxuries of Kashmir, we have brought you the Phiran in various renditions, but today, we will walk you through what it takes to create one of these regal pieces that are loved globally.

Let’s step behind the loom and into the world of artisans at Luxuries of Kashmir who bring the magic of Phirans to life for the world to savour.

Phiran - A Soulful Garment with Rich History

Hailing from the beautiful valleys of Kashmir, the Phiran has been around for centuries, keeping the folk of the valley warm and protected in the harshest of winters, The loose-fitting garment provided warmth and comfort to its people; and over time became a canvas for creative expression. The artisans of the valley began giving it a spin of their skill - adorning the Phiran with intricate embroidery in threads of gold and silver, giving it a regal yet mystical identity synonymous with the spirit of Kashmir. Today, the Phiran is experiencing a renaissance - embraced by fashion-forward audiences globally, especially in the world of modest luxury and ethical fashion.

How is a Kashmiri Phiran Made?

The process starts with the designers at Luxuries of Kashmir choosing the right canvas for the Phiran. Originally, Phirans were made from thick wool to protect one from the harsh winters but with evolving times, the fabrics too have evolved. We work with fine fabrics like Pashmina, velvet and rich silk blends to begin with. The fabrics are then dyed in rich jewel tones like emerald, maroon, midnight blue, or classic black - ideal backdrops for intricate embroidery in gold or silver.

Each Phiran tells a story. Artisans start by depicting the story in the form of the most commonly used motifs, flora and fauna. They then intricately weave the story in luxe threads. In our luxury Phirans, the smallest stitch is intentional. A single design may take several days to finalize before the embroidery begins.

Skilled artisans use different embroidery techniques, passed down through generations. Some of the most commonly used embroidery types are Aari, Tilla, Dabka and Sozni. Depending on the design complexity, a single Phiran can take 15 to 90 days to complete. Some pieces are embroidered collaboratively by multiple artisans to meet luxury brand deadlines without compromising craftsmanship.

Phirans You’ll Love

Phirans from Luxuries of Kashmir are a hybrid - seamlessly blending heritage with high fashion. Whether styled with boots and belts in New York, or worn with jhumkas and juttis in Delhi, our Phirans hold their ground as a statement of cultural sophistication. Here are our top picks.

Numinous Phiran

A Kashmiri double-tone phiran laden with skillfully done embroideries, this phiran is adorned in bold paisleys surrounded by dense floral vines. The gorgeous tilla embroidery delicately runs along the neck and arms. The phiran is complemented by a pair of delicate tulip pants.

Indigo Illusion

Embody a world of enchantment with Indigo Illusion, a regal symphony of velvet and silver Aari embroidery. This opulent velvet phiran and pants set in royal blue captivate with its intricate silver threads dancing from shoulder to hem, casting a spell of elegance. With Aari embroidery adorning sleeves and neckline, each stitch weaves a tale of luxury, ensuring you make a bold statement with every step in this classic ensemble.

Enchanted Emerald Phiran

Dive into the realm of Kashmiri haute couture with Enchanted Emerald - a masterpiece of sartorial splendour. Crafted from opulent velvet, this phiran and straight salwar ensemble depicts sophistication, adorned with exquisite antique gold embroidery along its every curve. With puff tilla embroidery adding celestial allure, immerse yourself in the magic of emerald green velvet, transcending mere fashion to embody true luxury and refinement.

Most Phiran artisans live and work in small, often remote villages across the Kashmir valley. Their homes double as workshops - filled with fabrics, threads, handlooms, and tools. Creating a hand-embroidered Phiran is not just a skill - it’s a lifetime commitment to craft. Often, it’s entire families involved, where children grow up watching the rhythmic movements of their elders’ hands.

Yet, despite their expertise, many artisans remain anonymous - a harsh reality in the luxury world. Luxuries of Kashmir works with such artisans to bring them to the forefront, ensuring fair wages, recognition, and preservation of tradition.